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The Jelly Hall of Fame Issue

20.07.2012

Guest
Editor

Bompas & Parr

This week we bring you a rip-roaring exploration of all things jelly-related, courtesy of our friends at Bompas & Parr. Along the way you’ll discover the world’s earliest jelly fans nad the allure of ambergris for Henry VIII; whet your appetite for the wobbly stuff in its heyday and meet the largest jelly known to man. And to top it all off, something special for the weekend ahead; a recipe for jelly like you’ve never seen it before. 


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Egyptian Jelly

Jelly has an incredible and illustrious history. Astonishingly, it pre-dates Christ. Albeit, not quite in the form you’d recognise from children’s parties.
 
Instead, BC jelly was a savoury affair. Jabbing a blade through several chunks of meat and nursing them over an open flame is one of the oldest forms of cookery known to man - and so too is the resulting jelly. Historically, jelly was simply the product of heating any meat-based, collagen - rich tissue and letting the juices cool until they start to gel.
 

 
 

The ancient Egyptians used these savoury jellies to preserve tasty, meaty tit-bits to gorge on at a later date. Legend has it that they became so fond of jelly’s preservative properties that it was reserved for Royalty and only the most special occasions.

While we’re still hunting the hieroglyphic for jelly, we like to imagine that the ancient Egyptians were as captivated by jelly’s wobble as we are today. 







 

Our fascination knows no bounds; here’s the world’s first ever recording of jelly’s inimitable wobble.




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Henry VIII’s Wine and Whale Jellies (1521)

Along with roasting, jellying was historically one of Britain’s greatest culinary offerings.  Beyond its preservative qualities, jelly got interesting when it transitioned from meat to sweet. From the 16th century, jelly (as we know it) graced the tables of the most discerning banquet hosts. Henry VIII was such a fan he served up an alcoholic ‘jelly hippocras’ for both the first and second course of his 1521 Garter Feast. 



But Henry VIII’s favourite jelly was rarer than the hippocras and came flavoured with ambergris, a precious whale product more elusive than any gold or diamond. Ambergris is the result of a quite remarkable process, produced in the digestive system of sperm whales and then regurgitated or secreted into the ocean to absorb its salty, fragrant aromas. In essence, the whale equivalent of a fur ball, produced by as little as one in one hundred sperm whales. 

In Henry VIII’s day, ambergris was also prized as a powerful aphrodisiac and medicine for the heart and brain, and for diseases such as epilepsy, typhoid and asthma. 



Today, ambergris is used by some of the most traditional perfume houses, to make the other scents used sparkle. Which means that if you’re wearing Dioressence, you’ve got the waft of whale about you. 
 

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The Golden Age of Jelly (1861)

At its zenith, jelly was only available to the extremely wealthy. Expensive ingredients, laborious cooking methods and scarcity of ice made it a marker of affluence and influence. As a status symbol, towering jelly desserts took pride of place along the centre of the table to wobble suggestively throughout the meal. So highly prized were these risqué treats at the most decadent of banquets, they’d be dressed in gold leaf to shimmer and shine as they quivered.

In turn, jelly moulds became increasingly extravagant to surprise and delight diners who thought they’d seen it all. Yet with the industrial revolution in full swing, these elaborate copper jelly moulds soon became increasingly affordable. The best were made by Benham and Froud, the firm that gilded the golden pineapples atop St Paul’s Cathedral. They made historic beauties such as the Belgrave mould - fitted with many turrets each encasing a decorative column of cream. 

It was the arrival of leaf gelatine in local grocers that brought jelly to the masses. Mrs Beeton’s legendary 1861 tome Household Management lists 55 jelly recipes ranging from cactus fruit to guava and from rhubarb to champagne. Most of these conclude with the suggestion to ‘sling in a glass of brandy’. 

We’ve been told that booze disrupts gelatine bonds and stops your jelly from setting; but let us reassure you, having created jelly delights up to 44% ABV (strong enough to set alight), there’s no truth in that nasty rumour. 
 

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Largest Jelly Since the Dawn of Time (2012)

Our first jelly commission was to make a jelly the size of a castle, in the shape of a castle. Sounds amazing. But it didn’t work out.
 
Most jellies (and certainly those you’d want to eat) are relatively small, maxing out at about two litres (which isn’t anywhere near castle-sized). When they get much larger, the weight of liquid tears the jelly apart and you are left with a sticky puddle rather than a spectacular wobbly dessert.
 
Learning from those mistakes, we’ve since created jelly spectaculars on a grand scale.

We’ve always had a lot of respect for the Army’s Royal Logistics Corps. As well as keeping front line troops supplied with fresh tanks, ammunition, food and letters, in 1997, they helped us make what was then the world’s biggest jelly at Blackpool Zoo. The dessert was almost one meter tall by seven meters wide and took about 12 hours to set with a blast chiller.






 

Earlier this year we had a chance to tackle the record again as part of the Museums at Night 2012 ‘Connect10’ initiative. Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s steamship, the SS Great Britain in Bristol had put in a bid for us to set the listed vessel in a sea of jelly, and we’re delighted to say, we won the public vote to actually make it happen.

The dry-docked SS Great Britain is surrounded by a plate of glass covered with harbour water, to insulate and preserve the iron hull. Our challenge was to fill this plate with a vast jelly measuring 55,000 litres and stretching to over two Olympic swimming pools in length, thereby setting the ship in a fruity gel matrix.

It was a herculean effort. The budget was so small that we had to raid our storerooms and suppliers for all the ingredients we could and called on the muscle power of the local probation team to mix the jelly.
 
We created a jelly spectacular like no other, culminating in the largest jelly feast in the history of mankind. 


Glow in the Dark Gin ‘N’ Roses Jelly (2009)

A SFTW treat, taken from Jelly with Bompas & Parr published by Anova.
 
For the Jelly:
200ml/7fl oz/generous ¾ cup Hendrick’s Gin
300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups Indian tonic water
Asplash of rose water
5 leaves gelatine
 
For the Glow:
UV blacklight



Combine the gin, tonic water and rose water in a jug and set aside. Cut the leaf gelatine into fine pieces and place into a heat-proof bowl with enough of the gin & tonic mix to submerse it. Leave until soft.
 
When the gelatine has softened, place it over a pan of simmering water to melt. Then add the remainder of the gin and tonic and pour through a sieve and back into the jug. Now fill your mould and leave to set.

Unmould the jelly by briefly immersing in a bowl of hot water and inverting over your chosen plates. For maximum effect, turn off all your lights and close the curtains to achieve total darkness. Switch on your blacklight and serve your glowing jelly to your thrilled diners.



(In case you’re wondering why the jelly glows, it’s because the quinine in the tonic water is UV-active. When the blacklight is switched on, it will fluoresce).

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About the Author

Bompas & Parr design spectacular experiences often working on an architectural scale with cutting edge technology. Their work focuses on the interrelationship between synaesthesia, performance and setting.  They’ve collaborated with Lord Foster and Heston Blumenthal to design jellies; flooded a grade one listed building with four tonnes of alcoholic punch; created a breathable cloud of G&T; charted the complete history of food; concocted a flavour-changing chewing gum; and built a chocolate waterfall flowing at a rate of 12,000 litres/hour. Most recently, they flooded the roof of Selfridges to build an emerald green boating lake and float-up bar six storeys above Europe's busiest shopping street. http://www.jellymongers.co.uk/